You have most likely heard the latest buzz over sulfate free shampoo and if you have had a keratin treatment lately, you have probably been told that this is a must have for your hair to stay healthy!.  If you haven’t, take a look on the back of your shampoo bottle and you’ll likely see ingredients likeSodium Laureth Sulfate. Perhaps you’ve heard that sulfates are bad for your hair and are now seeking the truth about sulfate free hair products.

So, lets put a few facts down here and stop the hype.

What is the role of Sulfate in Shampoo?

Try filling a glass of water to the brim, then slowly add a few more drops. You’ll notice that the water will rise above the edge but not spill over. This phenomenon is known as surface tension.

This concept of surface tension can be applied when washing your hair. Because there are millions of water molecules covering your hair when it is being washed, this creates a strong surface tension that prevents the penetration of water through the grease in your hair.

This is where sulfates come in handy; a sulfate is a surfactant.Adding a surfactant gives shampoo the ability to break the surface tension and penetrate through the oil in your hair more effectively than using water alone.

Now try adding a drop of detergent to your full glass of water. This will break the surface tension, causing water to leak down the sides. This represents how a sulfate would work in your hair.

This means that the addition of sulfates allows for a more thorough cleansing. Sulfates can be very potent or mild depending on their chemical composition. The reason why sulfates have been used in virtually every shampoo over the last few decades is because they are ridiculously cheap to manufacture and create many foamy bubbles.

Sulfates –  Foam and Bubbles

Sulfates like Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS) are used to make nice, foamy bubbles, also known as lather. Many people are misinformed and associate lather with cleanliness. In fact, the amount of lather has no relationship to the quality of the shampoo, but the psychological effects of a thick, rich, creamy bubble makes us feel that the product is better for our hair.

But now you’ve been educated that foam and bubbles are not necessary to do the job. What’s worse is it takes forever to drain.

Which Sulfates are in Shampoos?

The following are different forms of sulfates that may be added to your shampoo. There are some kind of sulfate (surfactant) in all shampoos, there has to be to cleanse the hair properly. They well be listed under another name or guise but they will be there in one form or another. I’ve listed them in order of most to least potent.

• Sodium Myreth Sulfate
• Triethanolamine (TEA) Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
• Ammonia Laureth Sulfate

Should you use Sulfate Free Shampoo?

Firstly, I want to shut down the myth that sulfates are carcinogenic. There is no scientific evidence behind this claim.

The most common sulfate found in shampoo is Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS). It is true that a more potent type of SLS is actually used as a car engine degreaser, however these are not the same formulations that are used in shampoos. The sulfates do not remove natural oils from both your hair and body, leading to dryness, thinning, or even hair loss.

SLS  products used in modern day shampoos do not have the ability to penetrate through the skin and enhance allergic responses, damage skin cells, and cause skin roughening, leading to conditions such as contact dermatitis.

Sulfates are a great additive to help clean your hair. So you’re left with a dilemma. Do you want to scan the supermarket shelves for a ‘so called’ sulfate free shampoo and believe all the marketing hype, designed purely to remove the hard earned coffers from your pocket. Or buy a good quality shampoo that will leave your hair and scalp clean and fresh and do its job!

I am constantly being asked on Twitter and Facebook about a beauty product being “chemical free.” Claims like this really bug me because nearly EVERYTHING is a chemical.

There is no such thing as a Chemical Free Sunscreen!!! Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are CHEMICALS!!

Alright, enough of that. I’ll calm down. But it does remind me of all the other misleading cosmetic claims that I see from cosmetic marketers. Here is a list of 10 of the most misleading cosmetic claims that I could find.

What makes a claim misleading?

Before I get to the list, I want to define my terms. There are plenty of more egregious claims than the ones on this list but typically those are direct lies. (e.g. cosmetics that say they will regrow your hair).

The claims listed here are not lies per se, the companies no doubt have supporting tests. However, they are specifically made to mislead consumers.

1. Natural, organic, green, etc.

This claim can mean anything because there is no specific definition for ‘natural’. Some companies argue that if an ingredient comes from a natural source then it’s natural. They conveniently overlook the fact that they chemically modify it to make it work the way they want it. And ‘organic’ is not much better. True, there is a USDA organic certification program but it is not required that a cosmetic company follow it to use the ‘organic’ claim on their products.

Why it is misleading – Companies who use this claim want consumers to believe that the products they produce are “safer” than other cosmetics. Natural / organic / green cosmetic are not safer.

2. Chemical free.

Every cosmetic or personal care product you would buy is made of chemicals. There is no such thing as a ‘chemical free’ cosmetic. Water is a chemical. Titanium Dioxide is a chemical.

Why it is misleading – It’s just wrong. It also is made to imply that the product is “safer” than cosmetics made with chemicals. The products are not safer. This is just wrong.

3. pH balanced

Skin and hair products often advertise themselves as ‘pH balanced’ as if that is supposed to be some big benefit. What products are sold that are not pH balanced?

Why it is misleading – Companies who make this claim try to imply some superiority over products that are not making this claim. They want consumers to believe that the products will be less irritating and will work better. They won’t. Why? Because any decently formulated product will be made in a pH range that is compatible with skin and hair. A consumer will never notice a single difference between a product that is “pH balanced” and one that is just normally formulated.

4. Hypoallergenic

Companies make this claim because they want consumers to believe that their products will not cause allergies. But the FDA looked at this issue in the 1970′s and essnetially concluded that the term hypoallergenic has no real meaning so anyone can make this claim.

Why it is misleading – Hypoallergenic products are not safer or more gentle even though this is what the claim is meant to imply.

5. “Helps” claim

While it would be illegal to make a claim that a cosmetic product fixes some particular problem directly, it is perfectly fine for companies to claim that the product “helps” fix a problem. Since the word ‘help’ is sufficiently vague any product could support a claim that it is helping some condition whether it is or not.

Why it is misleading – Companies use the qualifier “helps” to be able to make a claim that they want even though they can’t support it. For example, when a skin product says “…moisturizes to help strengthen the skin’s barriers function…” they really want consumers to think that the skin’s barrier function will be strengthened. However, they don’t have any evidence that the product will do this. Adding the word ‘Helps’ lets them make the claim without having to have the evidence.

6. Patented formula

Companies love to claim ‘patented’ or ‘unique’ or ‘exclusive’ formula. What they want consumers to believe is that the formula is someone special and will work better than competitors.

Why this is misleading – It’s relatively easy to find some way to patent a formula but that doesn’t mean the patent will somehow make the product a superior personal care product. Often cosmetic patents are just technicalities that made it past a naive patent examiner. Typically, the patent has nothing to do with how well the formula performs.

7. Makes hair stronger

This is a pet peeve of mine. Products that claim to make hair stronger do not make hair stronger. What they really do is make hair less prone to breakage when it is being combed. This isn’t hair strength, it’s conditioning.

Why this is misleading – If you test the strength of hair with a tensile test or other force measuring device, you will discover that hair is not actually stronger. But consumers are meant to believe that hair becomes stronger even though it doesn’t.

8. Boosts collagen production

You find this claim in lots of cosmetic products.

Why it is misleading – If the product actually increased the amount of collagen your skin produced, it would be a mislabeled drug. Cosmetics are not allowed to have a significant impact on your skin metabolism.

9. Reduces the appearance of wrinkles

Most any anti-aging product is going to make this claim and it’s very likely true. However, the message that consumers get from this claim is different than the words that are written and marketers know this.

Why it is misleading – While the product is only reducing the “appearance” of wrinkles consumers read that and believe that the product will somehow get rid of wrinkles. It won’t. Almost no cosmetic skin cream is going to get rid of wrinkles. They might make wrinkles look less obvious but this isn’t what consumers think when they read a claim like that.

10. Proven formula

The term proven is powerful in the consumers mind even though it doesn’t have to mean much of anything.

Why it is misleading – Marketers know that the term ‘proven’ automatically makes consumers think that the product works. And maybe it does work, but it almost never works in the way (or to the extent) that consumers will think it works. This is why it is a misleading claim.

Claims and the cosmetic chemist

Unfortunately, cosmetic companies have to make misleading claims because this is what consumers respond to. There are certainly some claims that are more egregious than others but as a cosmetic chemist you should be able to recognize those and help your marketing department find ways to make non-misleading claims. It’s not easy but someone should be doing it.

Not necessarily. No names mentioned, but there are products on the market, costing way over £100 per pot which are basically no better than Vaseline. (Some even
feel like Vaseline….)

Disillusioning, no? On the other hand, not all expensive creams are rip-offs. Good, evidence-based raw ingredients for cosmetics can be pricy. And, if a cream contains several of these at functional strengths (rather than low dusting’ concentrations that merely justify name-dropping on the package) the cost certainly mounts up. So while not all ‘prestige’ products are worth their price ticket, good results might, in fact, come at a price.
My advice is to not just trust fancy packaging, but look for evidence-based products with clinical studies behind them. Also, when checking the active ingredient on the INCI list (the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients which packages must display) make sure it appears high on the list, as this indicates a higher concentration. Sometimes
you can find ‘active ingredients’ appearing even after fragrance in the INCI list, which of course should tell you something…
Last, but not least, be aware of cheap ‘copy cat’ versions, which may well contain less concentrate actives or a less effective derivative of the active ingredient, rendering the product less
effective.

Did you know for example, that many products claiming to contain ‘vitamin C’ don’t contain pure L-ascorbic acid but essentially useless derivatives of vitamin C? All in all, choosing skincare can be a confusing maze. Best be sure and check with your dermatologist which products are genuinely worth the cash.

Yes – cleansing is important. Daily cleansing removes dirt, old make-up, excess oil and dead skin cells and helps control the bacterial load on your skin’s surface. But it’s vital to use the right cleanser for your skin type. Surprisingly, patients often ask me about simple soaps and feel that this ‘back to nature’ approach will benefit their skin, especially if it’s oily or ‘impure.’ Sadly, traditional soaps won’t do you any favours whateveryour skin type. They cause irritation, dryness and roughness by disturbing the skin’s natural pH (acid balance); disrupting its protective barrier function;
and damaging the fat and protein structure of the surface horny layer. Fatty acids in soap are also comedogenic, so can aggravate breakouts. So bar the soap – it’s no good to anyone. But here’s the good news. Cosmetic science has moved on and there are now some great multi-functional cleansers, which cleanse the skin surface gently and efficiently while addressing different skin types and their problems. If you have dry skin, the right cleanser can moisturize at the same time, while a well-formulated cleanser for oily skin will help reduce sebum production and pore-clogging impurities.
While oily skin usually benefits from a foaming cleanser (never a creamy, or even worse, an oil-based formula), a non-foaming creamy wash is best for dry and sensitive skin. After cleansing (and moisturizing), your skin should feel comfortable and supple, but never tight and itchy.
One last word about cleansing wipes. It’s easy to see why they’re so popular – they’re quick and simple to use. But sorry, I’m not a big fan of them either. As a cross between a rinse-off product and a leave-on product, they don’t fit either category particularly well. They won’t cleanse your skin properly because they can’t contain thorough enough cleansing agents, as traces of product inevitably remain on the skin. They might on the other hand still contain some potentially low grade irritating ingredients, which of course end up staying on your skin.

Many wipes contain for example high concentrations of preservatives to prevent contamination (bacteria love moist environments!)
but also raise the risk of reactions.

You see? It’s a no-win situation. Use them in an emergency by all means – and yes, they’re great for travel. But don’t let them get to be a habit. They’re certainly no substitute for your thorough, regular cleanser

Many people, especially if they have sensitive or allergy-prone skin, think that ‘natural’or ‘organic’ skincare is kindest. Even agood many doctors and pharmacists believe
that so-called natural ingredients pose the least risk of adverse reactions. Sadly, this is far from the truth.

Botanical skincare ingredients such ascalendula (marigold extract), feverfew, chamomile, plus a wide variety of essential oils and fragrances are highly allergenic – so much so, that they are high on the list of topical ingredients most likely to cause allergic contact dermatitis.

I’ve certainly seen many patients in clinic with horrible rashes caused by ‘natural’ skin
creams. To call these products ‘healthier’ is misguiding and I strongly urge allergy-prone patients in particular to be cautious with products claiming to be ‘natural’ and/or mentioning plant-based ingredients.

Remember, you never react on first contact to an allergen, but tend to build up an allergy over time.
So the fact that you’re fine with them now doesn’t mean that they’re safe long-term.