In their recent article, ‘Loss Adjuster’, Hair Journal spoke to the Dubai Hair Doctor about the signs that hairdressers should look for in order to help and support clients with hair loss. “There are three main types of hair loss and very often it is the regular stylist and junior at the backwash who may spot signs of thinning over time” Doc says. The following is some advice he gave to HJ.

Temporary Hair Loss

Temporary loss is just what the name implies- temporary. With this type of hair loss, people have the ability to recover 100% of the hair they have lost. The most common causes in women are post partum shedding, weight loss, anaemia, thyroid disorders and other health issues. However, before becoming overly concerned with increased shedding, Lyons suggests that hairdressers “take into account how often the hair is washed and the length before assuming it is something more serious”. But if the shedding has been going on for over six weeks, a visit to a trichologist should be recommended.

Semi-Permanent Loss

Semi-permanent loss in women is caused by female pattern hair loss – an inherited genetic condition that Lyon’s recognises as “becoming more common among young women”. Fortunately, this type of hair loss is partially reversible if dealt with by an experienced professional or clinic. The signs to look for are hair that is thinner on the top of the head and fuller around the back and sides and also a wider parting. Lyons recommends to HJ that hairdressers ask questions about their client’s general health, any weight loss, diet changes or notice in increased shedding in order to help. However, usually with female pattern hair loss, increased shedding isn’t necessarily noticed. In this type of loss, the hairs usually grow back finer and do not grow quite as long.

Permanent Hair Loss

Unfortunately, hair loss can be permanent. Permanent hair loss occurs when the hair follicle becomes damaged and is unable to produce new hairs. This can happen either from injury to the head, burns, localised radiotherapy and rarely from alopecia areata . However, in terms of alopecia areata, it can often go into remission whereby the hair will spontaneously grow back (in 98% of cases), but the loss can recur at any time.

While on-going hair loss should be checked out by a trichologist, Lyons says “with some little experience, knowledge and confidence hairdressers can certainly offer significant help and advise for their clients”.

I am often asked whether or not stress causes hair loss While many common conceptions about hair loss are myths, the belief that stress can effect hair shedding is a fact!

The simple science is that stress can, through a convoluted route, cause an increase in your bodies’ levels of testosterone – a male hormone (androgen) that can cause hair loss and thinning when found in excess. However, even normal or subnormal amounts of androgens can cause hair loss in those that have follicle sensitivity, and those with this genetic predisposition are even more likely to suffer from stress related hair shedding.Even though some degree of stress is unavoidable, there are things that can be done to reduce day to day anxiety. We suggest trying yoga or meditation, or even taking an afternoon nap. While moderate exercise can be a good stress reliever, it’s important to note that extreme exercise can also increase testosterone levels and lead to increased  hair fall. You should also take care to eat well when you are stressed (although it can be difficult!) as a poor diet can further exacerbate hair loss and scalp problemsStress will not, however, cause immediate hair loss unless the shock to your body has been extreme (i.e. stress from a trauma). Increased hair fall usually occurs six-eight weeks after an episode of stress due to your hair growth cycle. If you are experiencing hair loss, think back a month or two for possible triggers.

You have most likely heard the latest buzz over sulfate free shampoo and if you have had a keratin treatment lately, you have probably been told that this is a must have for your hair to stay healthy!.  If you haven’t, take a look on the back of your shampoo bottle and you’ll likely see ingredients likeSodium Laureth Sulfate. Perhaps you’ve heard that sulfates are bad for your hair and are now seeking the truth about sulfate free hair products.

So, lets put a few facts down here and stop the hype.

What is the role of Sulfate in Shampoo?

Try filling a glass of water to the brim, then slowly add a few more drops. You’ll notice that the water will rise above the edge but not spill over. This phenomenon is known as surface tension.

This concept of surface tension can be applied when washing your hair. Because there are millions of water molecules covering your hair when it is being washed, this creates a strong surface tension that prevents the penetration of water through the grease in your hair.

This is where sulfates come in handy; a sulfate is a surfactant.Adding a surfactant gives shampoo the ability to break the surface tension and penetrate through the oil in your hair more effectively than using water alone.

Now try adding a drop of detergent to your full glass of water. This will break the surface tension, causing water to leak down the sides. This represents how a sulfate would work in your hair.

This means that the addition of sulfates allows for a more thorough cleansing. Sulfates can be very potent or mild depending on their chemical composition. The reason why sulfates have been used in virtually every shampoo over the last few decades is because they are ridiculously cheap to manufacture and create many foamy bubbles.

Sulfates –  Foam and Bubbles

Sulfates like Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS) are used to make nice, foamy bubbles, also known as lather. Many people are misinformed and associate lather with cleanliness. In fact, the amount of lather has no relationship to the quality of the shampoo, but the psychological effects of a thick, rich, creamy bubble makes us feel that the product is better for our hair.

But now you’ve been educated that foam and bubbles are not necessary to do the job. What’s worse is it takes forever to drain.

Which Sulfates are in Shampoos?

The following are different forms of sulfates that may be added to your shampoo. There are some kind of sulfate (surfactant) in all shampoos, there has to be to cleanse the hair properly. They well be listed under another name or guise but they will be there in one form or another. I’ve listed them in order of most to least potent.

• Sodium Myreth Sulfate
• Triethanolamine (TEA) Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
• Ammonia Laureth Sulfate

Should you use Sulfate Free Shampoo?

Firstly, I want to shut down the myth that sulfates are carcinogenic. There is no scientific evidence behind this claim.

The most common sulfate found in shampoo is Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS). It is true that a more potent type of SLS is actually used as a car engine degreaser, however these are not the same formulations that are used in shampoos. The sulfates do not remove natural oils from both your hair and body, leading to dryness, thinning, or even hair loss.

SLS  products used in modern day shampoos do not have the ability to penetrate through the skin and enhance allergic responses, damage skin cells, and cause skin roughening, leading to conditions such as contact dermatitis.

Sulfates are a great additive to help clean your hair. So you’re left with a dilemma. Do you want to scan the supermarket shelves for a ‘so called’ sulfate free shampoo and believe all the marketing hype, designed purely to remove the hard earned coffers from your pocket. Or buy a good quality shampoo that will leave your hair and scalp clean and fresh and do its job!

I am constantly being asked on Twitter and Facebook about a beauty product being “chemical free.” Claims like this really bug me because nearly EVERYTHING is a chemical.

There is no such thing as a Chemical Free Sunscreen!!! Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are CHEMICALS!!

Alright, enough of that. I’ll calm down. But it does remind me of all the other misleading cosmetic claims that I see from cosmetic marketers. Here is a list of 10 of the most misleading cosmetic claims that I could find.

What makes a claim misleading?

Before I get to the list, I want to define my terms. There are plenty of more egregious claims than the ones on this list but typically those are direct lies. (e.g. cosmetics that say they will regrow your hair).

The claims listed here are not lies per se, the companies no doubt have supporting tests. However, they are specifically made to mislead consumers.

1. Natural, organic, green, etc.

This claim can mean anything because there is no specific definition for ‘natural’. Some companies argue that if an ingredient comes from a natural source then it’s natural. They conveniently overlook the fact that they chemically modify it to make it work the way they want it. And ‘organic’ is not much better. True, there is a USDA organic certification program but it is not required that a cosmetic company follow it to use the ‘organic’ claim on their products.

Why it is misleading – Companies who use this claim want consumers to believe that the products they produce are “safer” than other cosmetics. Natural / organic / green cosmetic are not safer.

2. Chemical free.

Every cosmetic or personal care product you would buy is made of chemicals. There is no such thing as a ‘chemical free’ cosmetic. Water is a chemical. Titanium Dioxide is a chemical.

Why it is misleading – It’s just wrong. It also is made to imply that the product is “safer” than cosmetics made with chemicals. The products are not safer. This is just wrong.

3. pH balanced

Skin and hair products often advertise themselves as ‘pH balanced’ as if that is supposed to be some big benefit. What products are sold that are not pH balanced?

Why it is misleading – Companies who make this claim try to imply some superiority over products that are not making this claim. They want consumers to believe that the products will be less irritating and will work better. They won’t. Why? Because any decently formulated product will be made in a pH range that is compatible with skin and hair. A consumer will never notice a single difference between a product that is “pH balanced” and one that is just normally formulated.

4. Hypoallergenic

Companies make this claim because they want consumers to believe that their products will not cause allergies. But the FDA looked at this issue in the 1970′s and essnetially concluded that the term hypoallergenic has no real meaning so anyone can make this claim.

Why it is misleading – Hypoallergenic products are not safer or more gentle even though this is what the claim is meant to imply.

5. “Helps” claim

While it would be illegal to make a claim that a cosmetic product fixes some particular problem directly, it is perfectly fine for companies to claim that the product “helps” fix a problem. Since the word ‘help’ is sufficiently vague any product could support a claim that it is helping some condition whether it is or not.

Why it is misleading – Companies use the qualifier “helps” to be able to make a claim that they want even though they can’t support it. For example, when a skin product says “…moisturizes to help strengthen the skin’s barriers function…” they really want consumers to think that the skin’s barrier function will be strengthened. However, they don’t have any evidence that the product will do this. Adding the word ‘Helps’ lets them make the claim without having to have the evidence.

6. Patented formula

Companies love to claim ‘patented’ or ‘unique’ or ‘exclusive’ formula. What they want consumers to believe is that the formula is someone special and will work better than competitors.

Why this is misleading – It’s relatively easy to find some way to patent a formula but that doesn’t mean the patent will somehow make the product a superior personal care product. Often cosmetic patents are just technicalities that made it past a naive patent examiner. Typically, the patent has nothing to do with how well the formula performs.

7. Makes hair stronger

This is a pet peeve of mine. Products that claim to make hair stronger do not make hair stronger. What they really do is make hair less prone to breakage when it is being combed. This isn’t hair strength, it’s conditioning.

Why this is misleading – If you test the strength of hair with a tensile test or other force measuring device, you will discover that hair is not actually stronger. But consumers are meant to believe that hair becomes stronger even though it doesn’t.

8. Boosts collagen production

You find this claim in lots of cosmetic products.

Why it is misleading – If the product actually increased the amount of collagen your skin produced, it would be a mislabeled drug. Cosmetics are not allowed to have a significant impact on your skin metabolism.

9. Reduces the appearance of wrinkles

Most any anti-aging product is going to make this claim and it’s very likely true. However, the message that consumers get from this claim is different than the words that are written and marketers know this.

Why it is misleading – While the product is only reducing the “appearance” of wrinkles consumers read that and believe that the product will somehow get rid of wrinkles. It won’t. Almost no cosmetic skin cream is going to get rid of wrinkles. They might make wrinkles look less obvious but this isn’t what consumers think when they read a claim like that.

10. Proven formula

The term proven is powerful in the consumers mind even though it doesn’t have to mean much of anything.

Why it is misleading – Marketers know that the term ‘proven’ automatically makes consumers think that the product works. And maybe it does work, but it almost never works in the way (or to the extent) that consumers will think it works. This is why it is a misleading claim.

Claims and the cosmetic chemist

Unfortunately, cosmetic companies have to make misleading claims because this is what consumers respond to. There are certainly some claims that are more egregious than others but as a cosmetic chemist you should be able to recognize those and help your marketing department find ways to make non-misleading claims. It’s not easy but someone should be doing it.