Scalp Problems

Scalp problems are common and occur for a number of reasons. The scalp’s micro-environment, with its large hair follicles and plentiful supply of sebum, and the relative ease with which this can induce elevated levels of micro-organisms and associated scaling, is frequently a primary cause of scalp disorders.

Another major factor is the infrequency in which some people wash their hair/scalp. They may take a shower every day but only wash their hair/scalp twice a week. Clearly this differential in cleansing from one region of the skin to another is likely to have an effect on the least washed area. Dandruff and other scalp disorders affect over 50% of all adults at some point during their lives. The most common cause of these problems is a micro-organism called Malassezia furfur (formally known as Pityrosporum Ovale). This fungus is always present on the scalp but when the level of sebum increases (sebum is composed of fatty acids which acts as a food source for the fungus) and/or there are minor changes to the composition of sebum due to ill health, diet, stress, hormonal changes and other factors, then conditions improve for the proliferation of the Malassezia furfur fungus resulting in scalp itching, flaking, inflammation, spots, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and other problems.

Another causative factor in scalp problems is the rate at which the skin cells form. These cells begin to grow from the base layer of the epidermis and gradually move to the surface of the skin. The epidermis, or outer, protective layer of the skin, is constantly changing. This whole process is called the epidermal turnover. Normally it takes approximately 28 days for the cells to move through the skin to the surface, where they come away when we wash or remove our clothing (much household dust is composed of dead skin cells) but with dandruff and other scalp problems the formation of skin cells is faster than normal, with the cells taking perhaps only 12 to 15 days to reach the surface of the scalp rather than the usual 28. If this is accompanied by an increase in the quantity of sebum which acts like a cement to bond the microscopically small cells together, then flakes, visible to the naked eye, form and we see this as dandruff. In addition to this are other factors which improve the conditions under which the fungus can increase.

With scale on the surface of the scalp comes an increased surface area, so increasing the space available for greater numbers of micro-organisms. This increased volume of dead skin cells absorbs more water (sweat) so allowing the fungus to multiply in this warm, moist scalp environment.

Dandruff

Dandruff
Contrary to popular belief, dandruff (pityriasis capitis) is not dry scalp. Most dandruff is oily so there is no point in putting on oil and rubbing it in, to cure your dry scalp – it will only make the oily flakes oilier – and stickier. Pityriasis capitis affects most people at some time in their life, often temporarily and fluctuating. Research indicates that it is stimulated by a micro-organism normally present on everyone’s scalp as part of the skin’s normal flora – so you can’t catch it as you already have it. The skin’s secretions control the organism, keeping it at a certain level. Adverse changes in the secretions, however, enable the micro-organism to flourish, causing the scalp to produce skin flakes faster – dandruff flakes. The extra rapidity of skin production and an increase in sebum, cause the flakes to become oily and stick to the scalp. Reasons for adverse changes in skin secretions can be stress, hormone changes in sexes, diet, cosmetic products and poor hygiene. Dandruff is simple to clear by using an effective shampoo such as ‘Clear‘ for flaky and itchy scalps. However, it may re-occur if left untreated. DHD recommends using Clear with activated charcoal Shampoo to clear dandruff then alternate between Clear Shampoo and shampoo for your specific hair type to manage healthy scalp and hair. Scalp Toner is seen as an integral part of the DHD regime: pre-treatment, shampoo and conditioner then scalp toner. Clear Scalp & Hair Beauty Therapy

Honey, Honey

Honey honey

Honey is a humectant, which means that it holds on to water molecules. This is a desirable property in a moisturizer, especially for skin. But unlike skin, hair is not alive and it doesn’t need as much moisture. What it does need is something to smooth the cuticle so the hair feels soft and looks shiny.

Sugar sugar

Unfortunately honey is not a good lubricant, so it doesn’t make hair slippery and smooth. In fact, it’s the opposite of slippery– it’s sticky because it’s basically a sugary solution. (Rub some between your fingers and you’ll see!) So it will not smooth your cuticles or help a comb pass through your hair without damaging it. So any moisture-grabbing benefits that honey might give your hair are off set by it’s stickiness.

The DHD bottom line:

There are plenty of honey based hair care products on the market but we’ve never seen any that use honey at effective levels for moisturization. Silicones are better for that purpose, even though people think ‘cones are bad for hair.

Natural v Synthetic

Chemical absorption myth

First, it is not true that whatever you put on your skin gets absorbed in to you body. Skin is designed to keep things out of your body. It is an excellent barrier to almost all chemicals. This is why doctors still have to give you shots or you have to take pills for most medicines. Some drugs, like those delivered through nicotine patches really work, but overall very few chemicals can penetrate your skin and get into your system!

Naturally Nasty

Second, natural products do not necessarily protect your overall health. I don’t know where this comes from, but “natural” does not make something nice. Consider all the awful natural things in the world like poison ivy, radiation, or cyanide.

In fact, “natural” ingredients are often more dangerous than the synthetic ones. These ingredients can harbor disease and allergy-causing microbes that can send some people to the hospital. Peanut allergies, wheat allergies, and hay fever are all caused by natural plant ingredients. There is nothing inherently good about natural ingredients. Synthetic ingredients are cleaned of bacterial contamination. They are standardized so you know exactly what you are using each time. Overall, synthetic ingredients are safer.

Slamming Natural Products?

I don’t slam all natural products. For example, I gave a mostly positive assessment of the Aveeno Active Natural Product. And in another article that showed some natural ingredients that really work on excema. In another one that showed the benefits of Honey for Hair, and broccoli has shown benefits as a sun screen . I try hard to find and write about natural beauty solutions that really do what they say. I am not inherently anti-natural.

Naturally Harder Than You’d Think

Unfortunately, most of the time you’ll find that “natural” products are no more natural than their “synthetic” counterparts. Typically, a marketer of a “natural” product will take a standard formula, add small amounts of natural sounding ingredients and play up the natural-ness on the label and in advertising.

This is classic cosmetic marketing. But the companies shouldn’t get all the blame. Consumers are mostly frightened by chemically sounding names. Would you rather buy an Aloe based moisturizer or one based on Petrolatum? The Petrolatum is superior in function but the name is not nearly as friendly. People want to buy the story in addition to the functional product.

The Natural Problem

The real problem we have with natural products is that there is an implied superiority that just isn’t deserved. While most companies don’t come right out and say it, they do insinuate that regular products are dangerous and harmful. They use claims like “Paraben-free” or “Sulfate-free” which only makes people wonder why those chemicals aren’t used. A natural conclusion is that they are somehow bad for you when this isn’t proven by any science. These kinds of junk claims border on lying to me.

Then there are some natural companies who come right out and tell you the chemicals you are using are poisoning you. They are so desperate to steal market share from more legitimate companies that they issue skewed press releases designed to scare you. The incredible hypocrisy of this company is that they issue this ridiculous press release about cosmetics containing cancer causing ingredients and then a quick examination of their own products reveals they use the same ingredients they say CAUSE CANCER!

Seriously.

Juice Beauty Cleanser and Toner uses Benzyl Alcohol. This ingredient is listed in the Environmental Working Group’s ingredient database as one that has been linked to cancer.

* Just for the record, there is no proof that Benzyl Alcohol as used in cosmetic products is harmful in any way.

Insidiousness of Natural

Finally, the biggest problem we have with most natural products is that they help spread chemical ignorance and fear. They contribute to the dumbing down of the population. They count on the fact that most people will naturally remember bad things they hear and often won’t follow up to see whether it’s true or not. This scientific ignorance & lack of skepticism is one of the most troubling problems in the world.

For cosmetic products, it’s really not such a big deal. Nearly all products will work and are generally harmless. But when that same fear & lack of skepticism is applied to the areas of medicine it can cause great harm to the entire population. Sadly, there are people like Jenny McCarthy who go on television shows, write books and spout unproven theories about a link between vaccinations and autism. They ignore science and twist data to suit their political agenda. And if enough non-skeptical people listen and believe, one of the greatest medical miracles of human existence could be reversed. Beaten diseases like polio, mumps, and small pox could come back and kill millions of people. It would be tragic.

This is why natural products are so troubling.

Brushing…………!

Brushing

Brushes

 

It is better to use a comb than a brush – a comb is easier on your hair. Vigorous brushing weakens your hair by removing some of the hair’s cuticle. Brushing may break hair off of the cuticle The constant traction, pulls the hair out. Sharp bristles will also scratch your scalp.
Brushes are often an essential styling tool – but you need to be careful.Choose a brush with a long, widely spaced plastic (not natural) bristle, as plastic bristles are smoother, blunter and kinder. Preferably the bristles should be ball-tipped. Natural bristles are sharper and tufted close together. Above all, avoid anything with metal prongs.Use a ‘saw-cut’ comb in which each tooth is cut into it, making it smoother. They are available in plastic or vulcanite (hard rubber). Avoid cheap plastic combs made from a mould as these can cut into the hair. Metal combs are even worse as their edges can lacerate the hair. The best styling results are obtained when using a comb to ease out tangles and a brush to style the hair into shape while using the blow dryer. It is vital to make sure they are cleaned regularly as they are prone to collect dirt,
which will be deposited back on to your hair.